Aos vencedores, as bananas

Ontem a queda do Muro de Berlim fez 20 anos. Acompanhei tudo junto com meio mundo pela TV e, apesar de ter apenas dez anos, tenho lembrancas muito vívidas daquele bloco de cimento todo pichado que um monte de gente destruía com picaretas e martelos, em um irrevogável processo de libertacao.
A história é complexa, e a vida, muito mais. Não sei se sou a única, mas levei 20 anos e precisei ver e viver em Berlim para compreeender o que foi a tal Cortina de Ferro, e brutal é a melhor palavra que me ocorre.
Um mundo repartido entre capitalismo x comunismo, até aí, ok. Divisao ideológica radical da Europa. Um país que passou a ser dois depois da II Guerra e, observando o absurdo com uma lupa, uma cidade cortada por uma cicatriz de 155Km de extensao. Famílias divididas na marra, gente que saiu pra trabalhar e não pôde voltar, pessoas inconformadas com as consequências diretas como um soco da Nova Ordem Mundial em suas casas. Conseguir atravessar uma rua era poder escolher uma vida e não simplesmente ser obrigado a viver outra, inesperada, injusta (como nos demonstraria a História) e indesejada.
O muro caiu por por forca de um legítimo movimento popular pacífico, decorrente de rachaduras profundas na estrutura do “socialismo”. Ninguém queria ser obrigado a participar passivamente da decadência em avancado estado daquele sistema. A Perestroika avancava Leste Europeu afora, e só os dirigentes alemaes-orientais não queriam ver o óbvio: era hora de devolver a liberdade para todos os alemaes.
Na noite de 9 de novembro, multidoes de berlinenses-orientais cruzaram pontos de fronteira de sua própria cidade – o absurdo, o absurdo- para ver o outro lado da vida. Do mundo do qual haviam sido excluídos por algo mais que 28 anos. Contentes e saudosos, os do outro lado os receberam de bracos abertos, ainda que estupefatos com aquela euforia descontrolada de seus compatriotas, algo realmente excepcional se pensamos na mentalidade germânica predominante. Num gesto de delicadeza ao recebê-los, os berlinenses-ocidentais distribuíram bananas, fruta tao banal até para eles mesmos, mas rara e exótica para seus irmaos-primos-pobres, culminando numa melancólica metáfora sobre o sentido da tal Cortina de Ferro. Tanta tensao política e nuclear, bravatas ideológicas vazias, arame farpado, guardas armados até os dentes, quilômetros de cimento, rigidez, sofrimento, tristeza e desilusao para acabar tudo em bananas.
Como consolo, fica a memória, meticulosamente cultivada como só os alemaes conseguem –também, passaram por cada uma- para impedir que tal atentado contra a Humanidade volte a se repetir.

O melhor club do mundo (parte II: a noite/dia)

Time for a drink.

Berghain and Panormabar have a total of six bars spread over three floors. One is in the room on the right of Berghain, next to the large dance floor, a space you can imagine as the side aisle of a gothic cathedral. Just as architects of old created a clever interplay of windows and narrow columns to emphasise the direct link with the heavens, here the spotlights are positioned in such a way as to make the ceiling appear even higher than it actually is. Another bar is slightly hidden to the left of the dance floor, near the darkrooms. There's also a staircase here leading up to Panoramabar, which is a little smaller and brighter than Berghain. Upstairs is house and straight, downstairs hard and gay.

You go to Berghain late, sometimes very late. Many Berliners have started coming in the morning after sleeping to avoid the peak tourist hours of up to 8 AM. And you stay for a long time. Often you can't even remember exactly what you've done in the hours in between. Not just because you may have been under the influence of various mind detergents and disco biscuits along the way, but because Berghain opens up its own space-time continuum. With other clubs you go in, stay for a while, then go on somewhere else. Here, you stay. The rest of the world disappears. In Berghain you're off the map. This is something you have to enter into willingly. You can feel very lost as the only sober person among hundreds of intoxicated revellers. Especially since the club is so huge—over 3,000 people are probably ushered through the doors on a good night. On the other hand, every room displays such a firm sense of proportion that you almost feel—well, it would be going a little too far to say you feel at home. Like a fish in water, that's more like it. After all, you're here precisely because it isn't home.

Taking photographs in Berghain isn't allowed, not even on a mobile phone camera. Because many guests don't want to be photographed while they live out their sexual fantasies, says a doorman when asked. This may be so, but above all every photo would be a bridge to the outside world, a reminder that the outside exists at all. No club is so successful at sealing itself off from this outside world as Berghain. The sun may already be high in the sky outside—inside you always seem to be shrouded in an early-morning twilight.

Sure, there are people who do things here for which they seek out a dark corner. Everyone who's been here has seen or heard people having sex on the bar. Or on a sofa. Or next to the dance floor. Even though the explicit sex parties have always been held in the adjacent venue lab.oratory (which has nights for every sexual penchant, so long as it's gay in the broadest sense: from Yellow Facts and Fausthouse, Beard and Slime through to the biker party Spritztour), Berghain also has two darkrooms of its own. And there are all kinds of stories about people having done this, that and the other while temporarily freed from all inhibitions.

In most cases, however, stories from Berghain are about somebody talking or listening to some ludicrous drivel, or about meeting or getting to know someone who was completely off their face. Then there are the ones about someone going into the toilets with someone else and one of them feeling either incredibly good or not so good afterwards. Often these stories are still funny when it gets to the middle of the week, but sometimes they're sad.

Above all, however, they have an incredible life of their own. Anyone who's been regularly to Ostgut and Berghain over the years knows from personal experience how these stories have given rise to and constantly reinvented the legend of this club. There's this big collective discussion where you subsequently recount the events of the weekend, tell each other what happened to whom, what you saw, what other people told you and what they in turn had seen and heard about. It's a conversation in which all these stories are constantly being retold, gaining new emphasis, being weighed up, evaluated and explained. You assure one another that you can't carry on like this, although you're secretly looking forward to giving in to temptation again.

These are quite normal clubbing stories really, things you experience in other clubs too—except that elsewhere it's rarely five o'clock on a Sunday afternoon when you find your way back out into the real world. What sets these stories apart is that they are constantly being interwoven into the great Berghain discussion. Like the one about the man who was fisting his partner on the Berghain dance floor and had a centimetre scale tattooed onto his forearm. Or the one about a friend who went to the toilet and came across a woman he'd never met before. She looked at him and said "Come on, fuck me right now," but he wasn't too keen on the idea, so she landed him a punch which left him with a black eye for days. Or the one about the guy who was in the toilets having a piss when another guy stood next to him, then suddenly cupped his hand in the jet, drank the piss and disappeared again—"He could have at least asked!"

This is how the Berghain legend comes about, and it's constantly being perpetuated. What's more, the great discussion has extended well beyond the Berlin telephone network. Nights are discussed in newsgroups; Chinese whispers circulate the stories around Stockholm and Milan. A few people in Melbourne have heard them. Then at some point the New Zealand Herald is saying that there are techno clubs in Berlin where sex on the dance floor is the most normal thing in the world. At which point a couple more New Zealanders book their flights to Berlin.

When it comes to creating a legend, it's fairly unimportant whether the events really took place or not. It's enough that the stories exist, that they are recounted and passed on.

Berghain isn't Bar 25, anyway. That's a few hundred metres away, as the crow flies, on the banks of the Spree. It too is preceded by a legend of unbridled partying, but the stories from Bar 25 are more extreme and grotesque. Like the one about the girl who was lying on the grass, using her mobile phone as a vibrator and shouting "Vagina dialogue! Vagina dialogue!" Compared to these stories, life in Berghain is pretty civilized on the whole. Yes, sometimes people fuck in the metal cubby-holes next to the Panoramabar dance floor. But basically the people here know how to behave themselves. Or they ask you first: "Sorry mate, I'm just gonna have to talk a load of shit to you for a little while, is that okay?"

In which case you're quite happy to put up with it.

Then you walk around, see what's going on over here and over there, have a drink, go to the toilet and look out of a window from the urinals behind Panoramabar at that odd little stream which snakes through the wasteland. You meet all kinds of people, some you know, some you don't. While you're waiting to be served at the bar, a Frenchman in his early twenties explains that he's a techno DJ from Montpellier and that his coming to Berlin was like a Muslim's pilgrimage to Mecca. On the stairway you get talking to a huge, half-naked skinhead who tells you with a smile that there is no other club like this, "not even in Russia." At the edge of the dance floor you pick up the thread of a discussion about dub reggae where you left off a few weeks ago.

And then you dance.

On a good night, the dance floors of Berghain and Panoramabar are the best in the world. They seem to bring together the best of 20 years of house and techno. The musical expertise of the crowd is incredible, as is their willingness to throw it overboard when required by the rising curve of euphoria. It's not so much the multicultural charm of this mixture of gay and straight, young and old, guys and girls, Berliners and tourists which makes it so unique, but its ability to develop its own particular dynamic. On a dance floor full of hardened Berlin techno veterans, everyone knows what the score is, but sometimes they can lack the necessary enthusiasm when the DJ slams the bass back in after an eight-beat pause. It's just that they've heard this trick a few times already. If you replaced this whole crowd with young, gay Italians who were at Berghain for the first time and really getting their rave on, it probably wouldn't matter what track was playing—they'd go crazy every time. But the combination is wonderful. Nothing can beat a dance floor which has been formed over the years, which knows what to expect from what DJ, and is nevertheless capable of breaking out of these patterns from time to time.
Then at some point you're in such a misty-eyed state that you vigorously affirm the political dimension of electronic dance music. Which lies, you think to yourself, in the way people interact with one another on the dance floor. You have to behave yourself here, find yourself a space, avoid getting in someone else's way. You have to learn these things, they don't just come to you.

When they're lacking, you tend to get these very intense moments of hate. Like when you get shoved aside by one of those little groups who think the shortest route from the door to the bar is across the dance floor. Or when your arm gets burned because the guy next to you thinks he has to both dance and smoke at the same time (unfortunately now you can't even smoke when you're off the dance floor, except for in the somewhat uncomfortable smoking lounge). Or when two guys who lack experience in channelling their uncontrollable urge to move jostle past you and start jacking back and forth. Then they move to another spot to hop around a bit, only then to wander off somewhere entirely different, barging you out of the way again in the process.

These are the times when you would like to introduce the principle of good governance into a club setting: the good dance floor, where everyone knows what they're doing in spite of everything. Where everyone can be as wasted and as spangled as they like, but still show one another respect. Where space is in short supply, but the remaining shred of common sense dictates that those present won't take up more room than is available.

These are the kinds of things which cross your mind occasionally.

Berghain and Panoramabar possess a different level of euphoria to other clubs. The party curve continues to rise steeply well into Sunday afternoon. This is partly due to the charm of the parallel society which exists inside the club. Here they have really managed to shut out the rest of the world. Or better still, to employ it as an effect, as an additional stimulant, a device for adding intensity. When the lighting guy in Panoramabar opens up the roller blinds for a few seconds, for example, letting the sunlight break through, you can physically feel waves of elation washing over the dance floor. People cheer and raise their arms in the air—flirting, of course, with the thought that too much sun could rapidly make this world disappear: like vampires, the crowd would turn to dust.

And at some point it comes to an end. After all, Berghain is a club and not an after-party location. You go to the cloakroom and hand over your cloakroom tag, which—just one indication of the attention paid to every last detail—is not a ticket with a number, like everywhere else, but a metal tag on a string which you can wear around your neck or tie on somewhere else. Whatever state you might be in at the end of the night, you will definitely get your coat back. They think these things through here. Which is important when no one is in the soundest frame of mind.

Then you stumble out of the door and into the light. You nod goodbye to the doormen—not that you know them, but because you feel in some way indebted to them. Somehow you have to give the night some symbolic closure. You look around, feel the fresh air on your skin, notice how much you've actually been sweating. You hear the faint ringing in your ears mixed with the twittering of the birds, the chatter of people sitting around having another beer, and the soft rattle of the sound system emanating from the building.

Now you can go home. Or stop by Bar 25 again.

Visto neste excelente site sobre a cena clubber mundial.

Aufwiedersehen, Berlin!

Berlim é uma das minhas grandes cidades-paixões. Voltar é um pouco estranho às vezes, mas na verdade é sempre bom. Como um amor que não acaba, mas que precisa de um pouco de ar, de espaço, de tempo para renascer com força cada vez que nos encontramos.

Tenho uma relação profundamente especial com a cidade, que me causou um entusiasmo de menina assim que pus os pés na antes mítica e hoje turística Alexanderplatz. Lembro-me de acompanhar a história de Berlim ainda na escola, mesmo sem entender muito bem o que era Cortina de Ferro, por que havia duas Alemanhas que eram inimigas, qual a importância de um muro cair.

A cidade, ou pelo menos um lado dela, o ocidental, era uma ilha de capitalismo dentro de uma Alemanha comunista. Sim, porque Berlim está no lado oriental do país, que após a 2ª Guerra Mundial alinhou-se politicamente com os russos. Durante a ocupação do país pelos países aliados, a cidade foi inicialmente dividida em quatro setores: americano, inglês, francês e russo. Os três primeiros, ideologicamente afinados, reuniram-se sob o nome de Berlim Ocidental após o fim do conflito, e pertenciam à Alemanha Ocidental. O último tornou-se Berlim Oriental, a capital da Alemanha comunista.

Durante 28 anos a cidade foi duas, algo inédito no mundo. Um muro separava dois regimes em confronto, que competiam silenciosamente entre si. Tinham que impressionar-se mutuamente, demonstrar a pujança de suas altas torres, de seus edifícios arrojados e enormes, a eficiência de seus meios de transporte, a ostensiva vigilância de suas fronteiras, as benesses de seus sistemas de governo. Obviamente, a coisa parecia uma competição fraternal, do tipo que pode ser (e foi, algumas vezes) fatal, mas também um tanto pueril.

A parte ocidental da cidade era uma espécie de „Résistance“. Quem conseguia pular o muro vindo do comunismo tinha direito imediato à integração ao mundo capitalista, recebia passaporte, documentos, ajuda de custo para se estabelecer. Já quem decidia fazer a ponte aérea, migrando da Alemanha Ocidental para a „ilha“ capitalista no meio do comunismo, era dispensado do serviço militar, recebia subsídios e pagava menos impostos, e os imigrantes que chegavam à Alemanha capitalista eram estimulados a morar em Berlim Ocidental, como uma forma de não permitir que a cidade sucumbisse ao regime vermelho.

Deve ter sido realmente comovente ver todo esse embate acabar de uma hora pra outra. Especialmente para os alemães orientais. A maioria deleitou-se com as liberdades do sistema capitalista. Mas muita gente perdeu a razão de viver, especialmente quem realmente acreditava e militava pelo socialismo.

Hoje, 18 anos após a queda do muro de Berlim, a cidade é uma das mais instigantes metrópoles européias. O lado oriental foi invadido por jovens atrás de aluguéis baratos e de liberdade, numa parte antes proibida da cidade. Para acompanhar o passo da modernidade, Berlim Oriental foi sendo gradativamente revitalizada, desde Mitte, bairro central, hoje caríssimo, para os lados de Prenzlauer Berg, já um tanto chique, e atualmente a renovação se move para os lados de Friedrichshain, último refúgio (já conquistado) dos adeptos da cultura underground.

Desta vez fiquei hospedada em Friedrichshain e Prenzlauer Berg. Não estava próxima do metrô, mas em compensação andei direto de bonde, o famoso M10, que cruza os dois bairros e nas sextas e sábados à noite tem a maior concentração de boêmios e estudantes da cidade, pois é entre os dois lugares que a noite berlinense acontece. Há tantos bares, restaurantes, discotecas, festas improvisadas em casas ou edifícios clandestinos, que às vezes parece um milagre que todos consigam sobreviver financeiramente. Há público para todo tipo de serviço, o que, em uma cidade com sérias dificuldades financeiras, é louvável.

Quem vem para Berlim tem a vontade de experimentar, de criar, de conhecer e discutir novos pontos de vista sobre vários temas, encontrar o diferente, sentir-se em casa no meio de tanta informação vinda de todas as partes. Aqui todo mundo se sente livre, e a tolerância é a marca registrada da cidade. A polícia convive bem com os punks, que por sua vez abordam respeitosamente as senhoras elegantes de Charlottenburg, que têm compaixão pelos asilados políticos que acabaram de chegar, que encantam os estudantes do Leste Europeu, que adoram se divertir nas festas latinas, e todos já sabem que aqui fica a maior concentração de turcos fora da Turquia. Basta andar na rua por uns poucos quarteirões para entender porque a cidade é especial. Todos têm aqui seu lugar ao sol (ou melhor, ao vento gelado que vem da Polônia) e há uma cumplicidade cultural muito grande entre todos.

Um de meus passatempos preferidos é tomar o metrô amarelinho, de preferência cruzando o bairro multiculturalíssimo de Kreuzberg, e viajar pela cidade de uma ponta à outra. Mesmo unida, Berlim permance duas em uma. O lado oriental é mais alternativo e atualmente mais turístico, com sua juventude efervescente, subversiva e livre, circulando quase sempre de bicicleta em ruas tomadas por graffitis e cartazes de festas, por entre construções grandiosas e um tanto anacrônicas. Já o lado ocidental é mais convencional, com muita gente de muitos lugares, letreiros em vários idiomas, arquitetura mais refinada, comércio mais caro e elegante, e mais pessoas circulando em carros.

Certamente há no mundo poucas cidades tão culturalmente abrangentes como Berlim. Aqui me sinto em casa, recebida de braços abertos (e com um certo mau humor típico) pelas pessoas que aqui nasceram ou escolheram tornar-se berlinenses de coração. Desfruto da infra-estrutura duplicada que faz de Berlim tão completa, de uma oferta cultural democrática e excelente, me encanto cada vez mais com o colorido que uma cidade de clima tão cinza consegue ter por causa das pessoas que vieram pra cá, dispostas a viver uma experiência urbana única. Só em Berlim eu sou capaz de passar todo o inverno sem pensar muito sobre ele, o que não é pouca coisa.

Muito do que eu sou hoje devo a esta cidade pela qual me apaixonei no momento em que cheguei pela primeira vez, há oito anos. Obrigada por me receber mais uma vez tão bem, Berlim. Volto em breve, pode esperar.